When the Bahmani Sultanate shifted its capital from Gulbarga (now Kalaburagi) to Bidar (formerly known as Muhammadabad) in 1422, the ninth Bahmani ruler—Ahmad Shah I—faced challenges and political unrest and Had to deal with factionalism. However, he was successful in maintaining the integrity of the Bahmani dynasty, which had seen impressive growth in the past.
According to historians, the state was struggling with an internal struggle for power. Despite many obstacles, Ahmad Shah I created an environment that attracted scholars from all over the world. Apart from promoting arts and literature, the Mahmud Gawan Madrasa—an educational institution—was established during his rule.
Bahmani coins were issued between 1422 and 1538 after he shifted his capital from Gulbarga to Bidar. Photo Courtesy: T Gopichand
Historians say that shifting the capital of the Bahmani Empire from Gulbarga to Bidar was a strategic move as it made the state easier to administer and provided security to the hilly terrain of Bidar. Furthermore, its connectivity with trade routes encouraged trade and economic growth and ultimately helped it maintain distance from rival states, thereby bringing political stability to the state.
The Bahmani dynasty had 18 kings and ruled for about 200 years. It first made Gulbarga its capital for 75 years and thereafter made Bidar its capital for more than a century. The first eight of the 18 Bahmani rulers include – Alauddin Hasan Gangu Bahman Shah, Muhammad Shah I, Alauddin Mujahid Shah, Daud Shah I, Muhammad Shah II, Ghiyas-ud-Din Tahmatan Shah, Shams-ud-Din Daud Shah II. And Taj-ud-din Firoz Shah made Gulbarga his capital from 1347 to 1422.
Ahmed Shah I, Alauddin Ahmed Shah II, Alauddin Humayun Shah, Nizamuddin Ahmed Shah III, Shamsuddin Muhammad Shah III, Shihabuddin Mahmood Shah, Ahmed Shah IV, Ala-ud-din Muhammad Shah, Wali-Ullah Shah and Kalim-ullah Shah in 1422 and Ruled from Bidar as the capital between 1538 and 1538.
Interior view of Bidar Fort. , Photo Courtesy: T Gopichand
Bidar Fort
The imposing Bidar Fort is well-preserved with three-tiered fortifications spread over 67 acres with a perimeter of 5.5 kilometres. Its outer walls are 5 meters thick and 10 meters high, surrounded by seven gates and 37 bastions. The irregular rhomboid shaped fort has palaces, mosques and courtyards.
Bidar Fort. , Photo courtesy: T Gopichand
The fort has seven grand arched gateways – of which the Gumbad Darwaza and Sharja Darwaza were the two most prominent gateways. The other five gates – Karnataka Darwaja, Mandu Darwaja, Kalyani Darwaja, Kalamdagi Darwaja, Delhi Darwaja were named after their directions.
Motif design on the roof of the colorful palace in Bidar Fort. , Photo Courtesy: T Gopichand
colorful palace
It is one of the preserved palaces in the fort. Square wooden columns in the entry area support a beautifully carved wooden ceiling which rests on wooden brackets with banana-bud motifs derived from Indian traditional architecture. The inner walls of the hall are decorated with underglaze-painted tiles depicting leaf designs and vases of flowers. The panels are framed by mother-of-pearl inlaid basalt colonettes, the carved wooden ceiling and dome with luminous motifs in the Rangini Mahal can be considered the finest of all Deccan decorative arts.
Entrance gate of the colorful palace. , Photo Courtesy: T Gopichand
The Takht Mahal (Throne Palace) once housed the magnificent throne of the Bahmanis, and although in ruins, it is indicative of the palace’s royalty. The structure of Diwan-e-Aam is three storeyed. Both palaces are built around rectangular courtyards.
The Solah Khamba Mosque (16 Pillar Mosque) was originally a formal audience hall, however, historians believe that the structure was renovated to convert it into a space where prayers could be conducted. The roof of the structure consists of a large dome surrounded by smaller domes. The fort complex also has Gagan Mahal and Tarkash Mahal which are in dilapidated condition.
The Hajar Kothari structure in the fort was built for the safe evacuation of the ruler’s family during an attack by enemies. According to local historians, there is an underground hall that leads to the outer wall of the fort.
Solah Khamba Masjid (16 Pillar Mosque) is located in Bidar Fort. , Photo Courtesy: T Gopichand
guns recovered
Vinay Malge, founder of Team Yuva, said that there were several cannons scattered on each bastion, rampart and gate throughout the fort. He recalled that about six small cannons were recovered from the ditch during the restoration done by his team members a few years ago. Karez system (also known as Qanat system) – an ancient Persian technology used for water supply that was introduced by the Bahmani Sultans in the 15th century and the water management system was further expanded by subsequent rulers. and was modified which played an important role in Bidar. Agricultural prosperity. At present, the Karez system has been damaged or closed down and measures and steps should be taken to revive and restore the Karez system, says Malge.
The development of the fort reflects the cultural and architectural exchange between the different dynasties that ruled Bidar. Historians and many writers claim that Bidar Fort was built by the Kakatiya ruler-Madhava Varma II in the 10th century. However, the fort underwent significant modification, expansion and renovation by subsequent rulers including the Bahmani Sultanate (1347 -1518) Barid Shahi dynasty (1527-1619), Mughal Empire (1619-1724) Nizam of Hyderabad (1724 -1948).
“In every direction, great loops of bleak black crenellations flow for miles over the hills and steep valleys below, forming what seems to be an endless expanse of towers and walls, gateways and bastions, arch-shaped merlons and fortified slopes.” India-based Scottish historian William Dalrymple has described the Bidar Fort in his book – “White Mughals”.
Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan Madrasa. , Photo courtesy: T Gopichand
Contribution of Khaja Mahmood Gawan
Khaja Mahmud Gawan has made great contributions to the Bahmani Sultanate; From education to administrative sector, his initiatives have left a lasting legacy. Due to his loyalty towards Bahmani, Gavan was offered the position of Mansabdar in the court of Alauddin Ahmed Shah, further he was made a minister during the reign of Humayun. Later Muhammad Shah II made Gawan the Prime Minister. His administrative reforms, educational patronage and economic initiatives shaped the Deccan region during the 15th century.
Gavan introduced a well-organized revenue system while promoting trade and commerce. He divided the state into smaller administrative units for efficient governance and established an impartial judicial system.
Mahmud Gawan Madrasa was built in 1472, considered one of the oldest and most influential Islamic educational institutions in India.
The Gawan Madrasa taught Islamic theology, philosophy and mathematics which attracted scholars from various fields. , Photo Courtesy: T Gopichand
The magnificent Madrasa structure reflects a blend of Persian, Arabic and Indian architectural styles. A large rectangular complex with a central courtyard, decorated with intricate stone carvings, calligraphy and ornate tile work on the minaret, which adds to the grandeur of the structure. This structure is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
The Gawan Madrasa taught Islamic theology, philosophy and mathematics which attracted scholars from various fields. Historians claim that the library of the Gawan Madrasa has a vast collection of rare manuscripts and books, and also has residential quarters to house the students. Recently the Madrasa was adopted by Shaheen Group of Institutions under the Adopt-a-Heritage scheme and an MoU was signed by ASI in August 2024.
Necropolis of Bahmani rulers in Ashtur village on the outskirts of Bidar city. , Photo courtesy: T Gopichand
Ashtur Tombs
The royal graveyard of the ten Bahmani rulers is located in Ashtur village, 3 km from Bidar town. The first tomb is that of Ahmed Shah; The interior of his tomb reveals its true grandeur – embellished with magnificent paintings reflecting Deccani and Asian art styles. Similarly the graves of Ala-ud-din Ahmed Shah II, Ala-ud-din Humayun Shah, Nizam-ud-din Ahmed Shah III, Shams-ud-din Muhammad Shah III and Shihab-ud-din Mahmood Shah II were aligned. . ,
Necropolis of Bahmani rulers in Ashtur village on the outskirts of Bidar city. , Photo Courtesy: T Gopichand
Next to this mausoleum are two incomplete domed tombs of Ahmed Shah IV, Ala-ud-din Muhammad Shah; Next are two similar smaller tombs with pyramidal roofs of the last two Bahmani rulers – Wali-Ullah Shah and Kalim-Ullah Shah.
On the way to the Ashtoor tombs, you can see a majestic mausoleum (Chaukhandi Tomb) built in honor of Ahmad Shah’s spiritual advisor Hazrat Khalilullah. Chaukhandi is an octagonal peripheral architectural grandeur that covers the square inner tomb.
published – November 08, 2024 09:00 AM IST
