On December 1 2024, a group of archaeologists, students, and labourers gathered at a mound in the southern part of the 18-acre Ratnagiri Buddhist heritage site in Odisha’s Jajpur district to unearth the remnants of history that still lay hidden beneath the surface. The expectations were mixed, but there was no doubt that resuming excavations after six decades would shed new light on Buddhism’s influence in the region.
As the days passed, the rhythmic swings of pickaxes and the delicate strokes of brushes gradually revealed the relics. Every inch of the earth seemed to hold a trace of history. Still, no one in the group anticipated that on that wintry morning, they would discover a breathtaking piece of Buddhist heritage — an intact, massive Buddha head lying face down.
Ratnagiri is no stranger to Buddha sculptures made of Khondalite stone. Dozens of such carvings have been unearthed in the area. But when experts measured the massive Buddha head, which took nearly two months to dig out completely, they found it to be 1.4 metres tall — the largest ever discovered in Odisha.
The excavation at the site is likely to continue until the end of March, after which it will be impossible due to the harsh summer sun. Then, further analysis will be done to determine whether the centuries-old sculpture could be the largest Buddha head ever found in India.
An excavated stone idol of Buddha inside ancient the Ratnagiri monastery.
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BISWARANJAN ROUT
“It (Buddha head) was magnificent. There were wrinkles on its neck. I was amazed at the level of expertise people had back then, carving such sharp and intricate features without modern tools. Besides the colossal head, we also found two other Buddha heads lying nearby,” recalls Dibishada Brajasundar Garnayak, the Superintending Archaeologist of Puri Circle.
The team subsequently found more stone-carved parts, including palms and fingers, which, along with the head, are believed to belong to a huge sculpture of Buddha in a meditating posture.
Hills of jewels
Ratnagiri, which means ‘Hills of jewels’ in Odia, is located on a hillock in the Assia hill range in Jajpur and encircled by the rivers Brahmani, Kimiria, and Birupa and their tributaries. The village is situated around 100 km from Bhubaneswar and is part of the ‘Diamond Triangle’, a collection of three Buddhist sites — Ratnagiri, Udayagiri and Lalitgiri — located in a 10-km radius.
Archaeologists believe this landscape was strategically chosen for Buddhist establishments. Its once-secluded nature made it ideal for spiritual and scholarly pursuits.
Moreover, it is believed that the rulers of the time provided land to sustain the monastic settlements, ensuring the residents’ livelihood and financial support for their rituals.
According to the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), the historical significance of Ratnagiri came to light in 1906 when Manmohan Chakravarti, the then Sub-Divisional Officer of Jajpur, first reported Buddhist relics from the heritage site. Later, in 1927, R.P. Chanda, an Archaeological Section Superintendent at the Indian Museum Kolkata, visited the site as part of his exploration of Odisha’s heritage.
ASI officials and labourers at work at the heritage site in Ratnagiri.
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BISWARANJAN ROUT
Further exploration followed in 1928 when Haran Chandra Chakladar, a lecturer at Calcutta University, surveyed the hills of Lalitgiri, Udayagiri, and Ratnagiri.
Alarmed by the threat of treasure hunters, the archaeologists urged the ASI to conduct a thorough survey for preservation. This led to a systematic excavation from 1958 to 1961 supervised by Debala Mitra, then Superintendent of Archaeology (Eastern Circle), who would go on to become the first woman Director General of the ASI. Mitra was 33 when she reached the remote site. Over time, she gained the trust of the villagers and unearthed hidden Buddhist treasures.
Based on the findings from sculptural and epigraphic remains, the earliest Buddhist settlement at Ratnagiri has been dated to the 5th century AD. It flourished until the 13th century. Over time, its significance declined, leading to its eventual abandonment. However, Buddhist activities in the area continued till the 16th century. Ratnagiri’s historical importance is well-documented through various sources, including historical records, inscriptions, and literary evidence. A copper plate charter of Somavamsi King Karna, unearthed during excavations, confirmed that it was once a major centre for Vajrayana (Tantric Buddhism).
The place was identified as Ratnagiri based on seals bearing the legend of ‘Sri Ratnagiri Mahavihara Arya Bhikshu Sangha’.
Larger picture
“After getting approval from the ASI Director General, an excavation was carried out in the Ratnagiri Buddhist complex in December 2024. The objective was to look out for partially visible archaeological remains and trace out any ‘chaitya griha’ (shrine complex) at the site,” says Garnayak.
He explains that such shrines have been found in the nearby sites of Udayagiri and Lalitgiri. The discovery of such a structure in Ratnagiri would connect it with the major Buddhist sites in Odisha and neighbouring States.
The excavation has uncovered three sculpted heads of varying sizes, a monolithic elephant sculpture, and hundreds of votive stupas, ranging from simple to highly ornamented. Brick and stone masonry structures have also been discovered during the excavation.
Smaller votives — stone-carved pieces depicting divinities — have been found arranged in a line, reflecting the Vajrayana practice of making offerings upon the fulfilment of wishes. The abundance of votives suggests that the site attracted a large number of visitors.
Stone tablets of different sizes, inscribed in Sanskrit using the Kutila script (Siddhamatrika), have also been found at the site. The ceramic assemblage is dominated by fine grey ware in various shapes and sizes. The niches in the votive stupas are believed to have once housed male and female divinities associated with Buddhism, further reinforcing the site’s significance as a Vajrayana Buddhist centre.
Several hundreds of votive stupas have been found at the site during the excavation. These stupas were given as offerings to revered figures upon the fulfilment of wishes.
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BISWARANJAN ROUT
The notable discoveries include a lion pedestal (Buddha’s Simhasana) and votive sculptures of Buddhist deities, such as Amoghasiddhi, one of the five wisdom Buddhas of the Mahayana and Vajrayana tradition; Ratnasambhava, one of the five meditating Buddhas; Akshobhya, another wisdom Buddha; Amitabha, one of the most widely worshipped Buddhist figures in Mahayana Buddhism; Tara, a female Buddha who is a consort of Amoghasiddhi Buddha; Marici, a popular goddess in Buddhism; Padmapani, a Bodhisattva; and Cunda, the smith who gave Gautama Buddha his last meal.
Ratnagiri consists of two monasteries where Buddhist followers once lived, meditated, and studied. It also includes a massive stupa, which symbolises veneration.
The statues, crafted from various types of rock, stand as evidence of the vast influence of Buddhist followers who might have travelled to faraway places or come from other regions. Renowned for their mastery in brick-making, they produced bricks that have remained intact till today, showing no signs of corrosion.
While a ‘chaitya griha’, of the kind seen in the two nearby archaeological sites, has not been found in Ratnagiri, the excavation has revealed a shrine complex with a different shape. “The presence of votive stupas in an arranged sequence points towards the shrine complex’s existence,” says Pragyan Pratima Pradhan, the Assistant Superintending Archaeologist who supervises excavations at the site.
Pradhan says the excavation work on the site is still in the preliminary stages. “More time is needed to fully decode the structures and determine their purpose. Some remains indicate the presence of four walls constituting a room, but not all structures were built simultaneously; they were constructed at different times.”
He adds, “The scattered remains of structures, sculptures, votives, and stupas suggest possible vandalism at some point in time. Given the sheer weight of the sculptures, such devastation is unlikely to have been caused by a natural disaster. While an earthquake could have overturned structures, the intact condition of neighbouring sites rules out this possibility.”
Meanwhile, the excavation has sparked immense interest among academics, students, and area residents.
Asad Sayeed from the Centre for Maritime Archaeology and Underwater Cultural Heritage at Alexandria University in Egypt and Rajat Gajbhiye, a PhD scholar at Pandit Deendayal Upadhyaya Institute of Archaeology in Greater Noida, have joined the dig. Students from Odisha’s Utkal University have also flocked to the site, eager to discover relics linked to Buddhist heritage.
“I have visited nearly all the Buddhist sites, including nearby Udayagiri and Lalitgiri. The sculptures unearthed here exhibit mature facial features that have evolved over time. The artisans of Ratnagiri demonstrated greater precision compared to those who worked at the other sites. The remarkable finesse of these sculptures is likely the result of months of meticulous polishing with various materials,” says Gajbhiye.
Problem of plenty
Kedarnath Das, 42, a resident of Ratnagiri, is happy — not only because the excavation provided him with five months of work as a labourer but also because the new discoveries have brought Ratnagiri into the spotlight. “In our village, you can’t walk far without stumbling upon some Buddhist heritage. Yet, Ratnagiri’s full potential as one of the biggest Buddhist heritage sites remains unrealised,” says Das.
Yet, the abundance of relics presents its own set of challenges.
A walk through Ratnagiri reveals Buddhist monuments that have been repurposed in various ways. Some votive stupas now serve as bases for Tulsi plants used in daily worship, while bricks and stones from ancient structures have been integrated into houses. Other intricately carved Buddha sculptures adorn the walls of houses as decorative pieces.
“There is no doubt that villagers have unintentionally used these artefacts for different purposes. We have appealed to the public to return them for preservation and further study. So far, we believe the villagers are not opposed to the idea,” says the Superintending Archaeologist of Puri Circle.
Buddhist sculptures have been repurposed by the village residents. Some votive stupas now serve as bases for Tulsi plants used in daily worship, while bricks and stones from ancient structures have been integrated into houses.
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BISWARANJAN ROUT
No one seems to know why the Central and State governments have not prevented further habitation on the hillock.
“We don’t enjoy living on steep slopes where the lanes aren’t even suitable for cycles. We also understand that more Buddhist heritage might lie beneath our houses. But we need viable alternatives before we can move out,” says Basanti Mallick, a resident.
Some villagers, however, resist the idea of further excavation, as it encroaches upon their private land. “The current excavation is happening on our family’s land. We need proper compensation for our loss,” says Rajendra Panda. Authorities, however, dismiss these claims, pointing out that many names in the land records are listed as caretakers. Under archaeological laws, the authorities argue, such claims do not hold.
Archaeologists have expanded their work beyond excavation, incorporating site catchment analysis, a method of examining the areas surrounding a site that can support its inhabitants by providing the necessary resources. A vast Buddhist centre like Ratnagiri, where scriptures indicate that 500 followers once lived, studied, and worshipped, could not have thrived without a strong support system, they feel.
“The inhabitants of Ratnagiri must have travelled to nearby areas to fetch water, gather food, and source materials for construction while also interacting with local communities. Our researchers are now exploring a 10-kilometre radius around Ratnagiri to uncover relics that substantiate this hypothesis,” says Mr. Garnayak.
Soil within 1.5 km of Ratnagiri has been found suitable for brick-making. Soil samples have been sent to a laboratory for testing and matching with bricks from the Ratnagiri heritage site.
The ASI will conduct further studies to find out the temperature and provenance of potteries discovered from the excavation site, as well as the building techniques and iconography. It will also try to interpret the scriptures with the help of experts. Archaeologists believe that both the Centre and the State governments need to rethink their approach to Ratnagiri, Lalitgiri, and Udayagiri. They argue that these sites should be viewed as part of a unified Buddhist heritage rather than studied in isolation and that an integrated perspective could help uncover the region’s rich heritage more comprehensively.
satyasundar.b@thehindu.co.in
Edited by Suhas Munshi.
Published – February 22, 2025 06:31 pm IST
