Everyone is doing it raw again. And they’re loving it. Get your head out of the gutter. We are talking about jeans.
A good pair of blues (the paler the better) were a wardrobe staple from the late 1970s to the 2010s. Fashion gurus will give tips on fit, rise, fade and rinse. Styles went from flared to bootcut, high-rise to low, slim to stretch, skinny to baggy. Anyone reading this probably has a pair of jeggings (eww) and green-ankle-crops (kinda nice) in the back of their wardrobe. But it seems like no one really cares about denims for the past decade.
So far. Jeans are back, but the playbook has changed. No one wants mom and dad’s bulky styles – vintage fit means something entirely different. Denim is in designer collections and at Uniqlo and Zara in the malls. And denimheads are suddenly talking about Japanese selvedge, fabric weight, knee room, barrel fit and back-pocket sizing. Wake up babe, the denim has changed. Here is your guide.
First things first: what is selvage?
What makes jeans high quality is not the fit, but the denim itself. Because denim is not a fabric but a type of weaving. You want 100% cotton, but with shine. While most cloth is made from two threads – the warp and the weft, which are folded into a criss-cross fabric – the selvage is made on a shuttle loom. Most large manufacturers (those who outsource to China, Bangladesh, and poorer countries) do not have shuttle looms, and they cannot produce heavy-but-smooth denim with edges that resist fraying (often with a red, white, or blue line along the edge).
The US had looms, but as US manufacturing declined in the 1970s, Japanese shuttle machines replaced them. So, most of the selvage denim comes from Japan. “It’s considered the gold standard, as many mills still use traditional shuttle looms and focus on incredibly meticulous production,” says stylist and wardrobe consultant Amrita Singh. Luxury house Maison Alaïa recently launched a denim line focusing on Japanese denim. Even Levi produces its top-shelf range in Japan.
What is ‘Sanforized’ and why haven’t we seen it on labels before?
Selvedge denim is usually sold unwashed. It is intended to adjust its shape according to the wearer’s body, and fades away only after several washes and consistent use (depending on the way you sit, bend your knees and walk). Therefore, raw jeans will almost never fit in a trial room. This is bad news for big brands. (Who wants to sell a product that shrinks 10% after people try it on and buy it?) Solution: Clear or pre-shrink the weave in the final stages of manufacturing. This makes it much easier to find the right fit and stick to it.
Why bother when stretch jeans exist?
Brother, oh! Jeans spun from lycra, spandex or elastane will initially fit well, but become loose after a few washes – especially in the butt, crotch, knees and waist, which are exactly the places where jeans should fit well. Big failure: It’s terrible for the planet. Synthetic stretch materials take decades longer to decompose and they make denim fabric harder to recycle. “As soon as you put denim through mechanical recycling, it turns back into its own fiber. To strengthen that shorter fiber, you have to add polyester, which doesn’t serve the purpose of recycling,” says Ritwik Khanna, founder of upcycling clothing brand Rkeve City. Therefore, choose 100% cotton as much as possible.
Indian labels are experimenting with khadi denim. Labels like Karthik Research have created patchwork jeans with khadi, and Summer House has created a range of shirts and jackets in the past, which are better choices.
Entered the mall. How much can I expect to spend?
By all means, pay as much as you can afford. But if you have the money, spend it on better craftsmanship, not just a trendy label or cut. Brands like Levi’s range from premium to affordable. More prestigious labels include 7 for All Mankind, Maze and True Religion, which are priced somewhere in between. ₹15,000 more ₹50,000 for a pair. if you want to drop ₹Rs 2 lakh on jeans, Maison Alaia will happily take your money.
Be natural. How much should I really spend?
“Really good quality denim starts around ₹20,000 marks,” says Singh. This is for jeans that have uniform stitching, strong rivets, reinforced seams, a solid metal zipper and a selvage edge with an inner leg. With care, this is a pair that should last you more than a decade – all the more reason not to opt for the in-today-out-tomorrow style. “I often return to Citizens of Humanity for modern silhouettes,” says Singh. The brand sells striped, straight-legged, printed, flared-legged and classic dark washes that are priced between ₹20,000 more ₹30,000. “They’re a great price point and they have styles that work on many body types.”
help. Not only is there Levi’s, now there is also JW Anderson…
“Levi’s 501 Original Straight Fit is basically the blueprint for the modern jean – five-pocket construction (the fifth is a small one built into the front pocket), durable cotton denim, and a fit that has remained relevant over the decades,” says Singh. Dior’s creative director, JW Anderson, also operates his own eponymous label. It’s a step up from the high street and sells unconventional styles in which the front is pleated at all, or in which the seams run down the front of the leg rather than along the sides, creating a wider fall. He also likes to play with big pockets.
“These styles are less about heritage and sustainability and more about creative expression,” says Singh. An older man, perhaps at a manager level, might wear a classic Levi. But the nepo-baby/part-time influencer with generational wealth may be visible in JW Anderson. For those on a budget, Anderson also has a straightforward denim collection with Uniqlo ₹3,000 range.
I’m hoping to thrift an old pair. Any suggestions?
Keep in mind the size. What we know today as size 10, waist 26 or S has meant different things in every decade, on different continents, on every label. So, try on as many pairs as possible to understand what fits.
With Levi’s, if the jeans have a big E on the label, it was manufactured before 1971, likely on an American shuttle loom – the Holy Grail. But let your heart decide. “Denim is an emotional purchase,” says Khanna. “One of the things I learned in vintage stores was that I may find the best-looking denim, but it may not fit me. What feels best is yours.”
Should I bother with the new barrel fit?
The balloon-like shape, with the nipped waist and tapered hem has been a very visible trend. “They are structured, not sloppy, and that’s why fashion is taking interest in them right now,” says stylist and creative consultant Devanshi Tuli.
Sadly, the inseam (the part that runs from the inside of the leg to the hem) in this style tends to be shorter, which means they usually end at the ankles. If you’re tall, look for a brand that makes them with a longer inseam. They also tend to make top-heavy bodies look fat. But if you like what you see when you try it, style it simply. A fitted top or T-shirt and smooth shoes so you don’t look cumbersome.
For work, buy jeans in a dark wash, medium rise, straight leg, tailored fit, no rips, no fade. “When styled with a blazer or crisp shirt, it can almost function like tailoring,” advises Singh. “Just make sure the back pockets are at your butt, not below them — that’s pointless from both a viewing and utility angle.” For low-rise (ugh, it’s backwards) you don’t want your back to be exposed when you sit or lean forward. Buy jeans that are at least two inches longer from crotch to back than in the front.
What is the overall prohibition?
“Ultra-distressed jeans, aggressively low-rise fits, and extremely slim silhouettes. The mood has shifted toward more thoughtful proportions—straight, relaxed, or slightly sculptural shapes,” says Singh. “Colored denim definitely comes back up every few years, but it’s usually more of a fashion moment than a long-term wardrobe item.” No one is touching jeggings, severe boot-cuts (they’re too tight in the knees), cropped styles and ripped jeans. And the strange thing is that no one is wearing black denim much. White, even less.
Can I put it in the machine?
It depends on what you want from washing. Each round of cleaning brings more fading, especially with raw denim, and especially for darker jeans. Denimheads will tell you that jeans need to be washed after every 10 wears (assuming you haven’t spilled anything or gotten mud on them). Gentle soaking and hand washing (no whacking, no wringing) will keep the look fresh for longer. It will also reduce shrinkage after washing, prevent tearing and keep wrinkles away.
Never tumble dry. And if you’re drying your jeans in the sun, hang them inside out, and horizontally if you have the space (it dries faster and shrinks less). And unless you want to look like your uncle from 1985, don’t create creases in the front when ironing.
From HT Brunch, May 09, 2026
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